Snow Work Process & Best Practice

 At David J. Frank it may seem like there is some down time during the winter, but in reality there is work going on every day to prepare for the next large snowstorm.  Throughout the year our team of professionals spends much time researching and planning to provide the best materials and the best service to our customers when the snow starts falling.  The time spent bringing this information together provides our clients with the best services when the winter weather hits.  Here are a few things that we consider every time it snows to keep our clients properties safe and usable!

 While we don’t have an on staff meteorologist on staff at David J. Frank, we do have the latest technology to update us on the current weather conditions in the winter.  When snow is on its way our management team of snow professionals considers many factors to determine how service will be completed at our sites.  Important things to consider with a storm event are the start of precipitation, type of precipitation, storm intensity, expected storm length, wind conditions, temperature, etc.  All of these factors have to be taken into account to make sure that the right amount of service is provided at the right time on each site.  Some sites may need more service based on the time of day and that also plays a factor in planning how to tackle a storm.  There is a huge amount of planning that takes place to be ready to clean up after a storm and all of the factors noted above are important to consider for all aspects of snow clean-up.

             Today we also plan ahead before a storm hits to prepare our sites and keep them safer ahead of time.  This includes the use of anti-iceing agents. Anti-icing can be a cost-effective strategy that optimizes chemical usage. It is a proactive approach that should be first in a series of strategies for most winter storms. By applying chemical freeze-point-depressant materials before a storm, you can prevent snow and ice from bonding to the pavement.  This can greatly affect how safe a property is during a storm and decrease liability for property owners.

             In addition to anti-iceing, we also pre-treat our salt in many instances to enhance its ability to melt snow and ice. Pre-treating is mixing a liquid into the stockpile of salt or sand before it is applied. Unlike pre-wetting, it does not require equipment changes.  We also use winter sand and other abrasives when temperatures are too cold for deicing chemicals to be effective. But be aware that sand does not melt anything. It provides temporary traction, and only when it is on top. Sand also clogs sewers, ditches, and streams. As a result, avoid sand use as much as possible. A salt/sand mix is generally not recommended. Salt reduces the effectiveness of sand, and sand reduces the effectiveness of salt. However, a salt/sand mix may be helpful in limited situations such as a freezing rain event where the salt is washed away quickly. A 25 to 50 percent sand/salt mix has been documented as effective in increasing friction by sticking the sand to the surface, like sandpaper.

            In the end, the snow professionals at David J. Frank are always preparing for winter.  We know in Wisconsin every winter is different.  With climate change looming who knows what this winter will bring!  When it comes to snow new ideas and new ways to keep our properties usable in the winter in South East Wisconsin is a priority at David J. Frank and we look forward to continue to be a leader in this part of our business for many years to come!

Zach Lieven

Landscape Architect

What is organic?

We have all heard the term “organic” tossed around but what does it really mean and why is it important? According to the online dictionary, organic means “noting or pertaining to a class of chemical compounds that formerly comprised only those existing in or derived from plants or animals, but that now includes all of compounds of carbon.” Basically organic means the plant, product or animal was grown without the use of any synthetic materials, genetically modified organisms, pesticides, antibiotics or growth hormones.

Why is it important? Well, because we all care about our future and the future of our grandchildren. The use of chemicals is forcing nature, including both plants and animals, to mutate around our chemical methods, thus creating hard-to-beat strains of bacteria, super-weeds and an imbalance of insects. We are also ingesting daily low doses of poison with the chemically grown food that we eat. Yes, it is less expensive at the checkout, but in the long run, the expense on our health, the land and the earth is priceless.

What can we do? First we need to change our perspective. We need to respect nature and let it be what it is rather than try to contort or control it. We need to see weeds or an overabundance of damaging insects or disease as a symptom of an imbalance rather than the problem itself. We need not to respond by relying on chemicals alone, but working to re-align that balance and using chemicals only as a tool to help us get there. We need to invest in healthy soil, use integrated pest management when presented with insect challenges, put the right plants in the right places and use a diverse variety of plants making sure to include native varieties. We also need to support the farms that are using organic and sustainable methods of farming, buy local and grow our own food at home.

Organic methods in the garden can be viewed as an investment for the future. They may not always offer an instant response that some chemical controls may present, but they are slowly adding to the health of your garden to have a wealth of balanced soil, flourishing plants, healthy animals, and a safe environment for everyone. Instant gratification can be enchanting while patience can be difficult, but it is important to think beyond the now and understand the effects of our immediate choices.

Why is healthy soil so important? Soil is the magical ingredient. Healthy soil is crucial, just like a good diet is vital for us to be healthy. Soil is the source of nutrients for plants, the breeding ground for micro-organisms that continue to enhance the soil quality and the source for water holding capacity. Without healthy soil, the success of plants is minimal. (I suggest watching “Dirt! The Movie” for further information and inspiration.)
What do we mean by the right plant in the right place? Set plants up for success by planting them where they will flourish rather than insisting that plants perform outside of their natural boundaries. Don’t plant full sun loving plants in part-shade or shade and vice versa and don’t plant monocultures (all of one plant). A diverse variety of plants means a diverse variety of insects which thus assists in creating a balanced environment.

Enough with the monocultures! We all love to play in the grass, but it has its place and its place does not need to be the majority of every home landscape. We tend to see grass as a single unit, but we forget that it consists of thousands of the same plant in a mass planting. Of course we shouldn’t banish our beloved turf, but we should keep it in moderation, designating it to the areas where we can use it and enjoy it and then fill the rest of the landscape with a variety of plants to include natives, vegetables and trees.

After a change in perspective and some habit adjustments, we can create healthier lifestyles for ourselves and our future. Let’s put change in the piggy bank to build toward a greater future filled with abundance and well being!

Erin Brophy
Client Service Rep.
David J. Frank Landscape Contracting, Inc.

Green Roofs

A green roof is an addition of a new or existing roof that involves high-quality water proofing, a root repellent system, a drainage system, filter cloth, a lightweight growing medium and plants. Green roof systems may be modular with drainage layers, filter cloth, growing media and plants already prepared in movable, interlocking grids, or each component may be installed separately. Green roof development involves the creation of contained green space on top of a human-made structure. This green space could be below, at or above grade, but in all cases the plants are not planted in the ground.

There is no single type of green roof that works for all buildings, climates and client needs. Green roofs can be categorized as intensive or extensive, depending on the depth of growing medium. Six inches or less growing medium depth is an extensive roof, also characterized by its lower weight, lower plant diversity, cost and maintenance. Intensive green roofs have more than 12 inches of growing media and tend to have higher plant diversity, higher weight, cost and maintenance.

One benefit green roofs provide is increased savings on heating and cooling energy costs. Results vary according to size of the building, climate and type of green roof, but a Michigan State University study finds  that a typical one-story building with a grass roof and four inches of growing medium would result in a 25% reduction in summer cooling needs. Field experiments found that a 6-inch extensive green roof reduced heat gains by 95% and heat losses by 26% compared to a conventional reference roof.

Green roofs decrease the cost of meeting greenhouse gas reductions and adapting to climate change by reducing the urban heat island effect -- the phenomenon of metropolitan areas being significantly warmer than surrounding rural areas, due to the heat-reflecting nature of concrete and other man-made materials and the release of heat from AC systems. The reintroduction of vegetation into cities promotes natural cooling by absorbing, instead of reflecting, the sun's rays, and through evapotranspiration. Traditional black roofs can reach temperatures of 158°F. One study concluded that 25% green roof coverage can reduce the urban heat island effect by up to 3 degrees F. Green roofs can also mitigate air pollution levels by trapping particulates and capturing harmful gases.

Milwaukee is a city that has a combined sewer system (the deep tunnel), whose treatment capacity can be overwhelmed by heavy precipitation, resulting in overflows into Lake Michigan with untreated waste water. By capturing and temporarily storing storm water, green roofs can reduce run-off volumes, thereby reducing the occurrence of combined sewer overflow events. By reducing peak flows, green roofs can also reduce the incidence of flooding and damage by erosion.

Green roofs filter storm water, improving the quality of the run-off. Studies have shown that a conventional roof's run-off contains high concentrations of pollutants from rainwater, roofing materials and atmospheric deposition. The plants and growing media used in green roofs help decontaminate run-off, loading fewer pollutants into the municipal storm water system.

Another cool application is rooftop agriculture, which can help mitigate the negative impacts of urban sprawl, ensure heightened food security and engage communities in the food production process. Given that at-grade land in urban centers is at a premium for development, roofs are a logical location for urban agriculture. Urban food production reduces the uncertainty associated with long-distance food supply, including supply interruptions. Rooftop community gardens can help meet nutritional requirements and reduce household expenditures on food, while creating accessible meeting places and activity areas that can increase social interaction and community cohesion.

Jeff Miller

First the Cold, Now the Mold!

As winter (finally!) comes to an end, many homeowners are dealing with another kind of “white stuff” on their lawn:  mold.  There are two types of snow mold:  Grey Snow Mold (Typhula blight) and Pink Snow Mold (Fusarium patch), both of which are fungal diseases that are common in spring lawns.

Snow mold develops when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not completely frozen. It can also be brought on if a lawn is not properly prepared for winter.  For example, a badly timed fertilizer application can cause a flush of growth too late in the fall.  Snow mold can also thrive under leaves that have not been cleaned up or in long grass that should have been mowed one last time before winter set in.

Seeing Spots?

Snow mold damage looks like circular patches of dead, matted grass. It is not unusual to find both gray and pink snow mold together.  While both are more or less white, grey-hued snow mold only infects the leafs of grass while pink snow mold does more damage because it attacks the entire crown of the plant.

Pink snow mold is distinguished by the pink color of the web-like mycelium growing on the grass surface. When the grass is wet, the moldy growth looks like white cobwebs, but it turns pink as it matures then disappears when the grass dries.  Gray snow mold is similar, except its mycelium stays whitish-gray and it produces tiny black mycelial masses (sclerotia) on the grass blades.

Spring Cleaning!

Fungicides are available to both prevent and treat snow mold, but because the damage is largely superficial and temporary, you’re probably better off handling it with a little spring cleaning in your yard.  Simply raking the infected area will remove thatch and debris and speed up the drying process – once the grass is dry, the mold will dry up too and your lawn will then grow out and renew itself.  Some overseeding may be necessary or, if there is a great deal of damage, topdressing can be applied and areas can be repaired like a bare patch.

Although it can look really nasty, most snow mold damage will recover with little or no work on your part.  If that’s not enough of a silver lining, just remember that it’s also a sure sign of spring and warmer days are certainly on the way!

We're hiring experienced landscape professionals this Spring!

See our website for details: http://www.davidjfrank.com/index.php?Navigational-Pages-Careers-Job-Openings-35

Fall for a Great Lawn

Did you know that fall is a great time to improve your lawn? By fertilizing now, you'll see a noticeable improvement in your lawn next spring. Winterizing protects grass during colder months and gives it a head start after the first thaw for a lusher, greener lawn next season.

Fall is also the best time to start new grass from seed. Whether you're filling in a few bare patches, overseeding for a fuller lawn or starting a new lawn from the ground up, grass seed does well in fall for a number of reasons:

1. Heavy dew and cooler temperatures make it easy to keep seeds and new sprouts moist, without constant watering.

2. Daytime temperatures won't scorch the seeds, but keep the ground warm enough overnight to promote healthy germination and growth.

3. Weeds, which can easily choke out young grass, are usually under control by fall, if you've taken the proper steps during the spring and summer.

Here are also a few tips for giving your seed a good start:

1. Till the area as young roots can't penetrate heavily compacted ground; this will also help with proper drainage.

2. Add 2-3 inches of screened top soil and level it with a landscape rake.

3. Using a broadcast spreader, sow seeds that are well suited to the area; there are varieties specifically for sunny and shaded yards.

4. Using the same spreader, apply a starter fertilizer. Grass simply won't grow as well without this, and you need it with winter on the way.

5. Cover the soil and new seed with a light layer of hay to prevent wash-out.

6. Water well and continue as needed through fall.

After a few warm autumn weeks, grass will be strong enough to survive the winter and thrive in spring.

Just two words of caution ...

Weeds Happen! Tiny, resilient weed seeds are already in your soil, and more will find their way to your lawn by way of wind, bird or other modes. There WILL BE weeds growing along with new grass, but don't try to treat them yet: you'll kill them AND your new grass. Be patient and tackle them next spring; it's worth the wait!

IPM Update ...

Don't Leaf It Alone - Our Specialists Are Here To Help!

Lately our team has been talking with a number of clients who are saying "there's something wrong with my maple tree!" Chances are, the tree has a common fungal disease called TAR SPOT. Fortunately this problem rarely seriously impacts overall plant health and is primarily only an aesthetic problem. However, in conjunction with the drought and the fact that some trees have been quite heavily infected repeatedly over the last 4-5 years, Tar Spot is quickly becoming cause for concern. This disease cannot be treated now, in fall. If treating with fungicides, it must be done early in the spring – the first application is applied at bud break so now is the time to schedule this service with your David J Frank representative.

What is of the utmost importance in controlling this problem now and throughout the fall is that the fallen leaves of these trees must be collected and removed (or properly composted to kill the spores). The most commonly affected species is the Norway Maple, so if you have this tree on your property, be vigilant about raking leaves as they fall and doing a thorough fall clean up before the snow files. If left over winter, the spores will re-infect the trees next spring. Also, as is always the case, proper care and watering will help keep the plants as healthy and resilient as possible. Below is more detailed information if you're interested, or simply call us for assistance.

http://hort.uwex.edu/articles/tar-spot

EUONYMUS SCALE is also very noticeable right now. There are many scales and this particular kind affects evergreen Euonymus like Boxwood Bittersweet, Burning Bush, Pachysandra and more. It is another problem that is hard to effectively control (chemically) right now based on the life cycle of the pest.

The problem is usually detected after high populations have develped and damage has already occurred. Stressed plants, like those near buildings where there are high temperatures and low moisture are most prone to attack. The first symptoms appear as narrow yellow or white spots on the leaves, which are males. Closer observation reveals female scales (dark brown and oyster-shell shaped) along the stems and leaf veins and sometimes on the leaf undersurface. The scales overwinter as mature, fertilized females. In spring, eggs are laid under the scale covering and hatch over a period of 2-3 weeks. The tiny orange-yellow "crawlers" then move to other parts of the plant or are blown to other susceptible hosts. There may be 2-3 generations per year, but the newly hatched crawlers are the easiest to control with contact insecticides. Because they hatch over a long period and feed on sap inside the plant tissue, contact or systemic insecticides are the preferred treatment.

Dormant season application of a narrow-range or horticultural oil is effective against scales overwintering as adults, but eggs will still need to be treated several times in spring at 10 - 12 day intervals with appropriate pesticides. Because there are so many varieties of scale and several application options, the best approach is to seek professional help with properly identifying and treating this problems before the plant becomes defoliated and you risk the death of valuable ornamental plantings.

The Doctor Is In!

We are fortunate to be one of only a handful of landscaping firms in the whole Midwest that has an IPM specialist (integrated pest management) on staff with a Ph.D. in entomology. Dr. Alfred Bezhani is available to to help with this or other insect problems and works closely with our team of horticulturists, arborists, certified landscape technicians, licensed applicators and maintenance professionals to ensure the complete health of your landscape, now and for seasons to come.