First the Cold, Now the Mold!

As winter (finally!) comes to an end, many homeowners are dealing with another kind of “white stuff” on their lawn:  mold.  There are two types of snow mold:  Grey Snow Mold (Typhula blight) and Pink Snow Mold (Fusarium patch), both of which are fungal diseases that are common in spring lawns.

Snow mold develops when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not completely frozen. It can also be brought on if a lawn is not properly prepared for winter.  For example, a badly timed fertilizer application can cause a flush of growth too late in the fall.  Snow mold can also thrive under leaves that have not been cleaned up or in long grass that should have been mowed one last time before winter set in.

Seeing Spots?

Snow mold damage looks like circular patches of dead, matted grass. It is not unusual to find both gray and pink snow mold together.  While both are more or less white, grey-hued snow mold only infects the leafs of grass while pink snow mold does more damage because it attacks the entire crown of the plant.

Pink snow mold is distinguished by the pink color of the web-like mycelium growing on the grass surface. When the grass is wet, the moldy growth looks like white cobwebs, but it turns pink as it matures then disappears when the grass dries.  Gray snow mold is similar, except its mycelium stays whitish-gray and it produces tiny black mycelial masses (sclerotia) on the grass blades.

Spring Cleaning!

Fungicides are available to both prevent and treat snow mold, but because the damage is largely superficial and temporary, you’re probably better off handling it with a little spring cleaning in your yard.  Simply raking the infected area will remove thatch and debris and speed up the drying process – once the grass is dry, the mold will dry up too and your lawn will then grow out and renew itself.  Some overseeding may be necessary or, if there is a great deal of damage, topdressing can be applied and areas can be repaired like a bare patch.

Although it can look really nasty, most snow mold damage will recover with little or no work on your part.  If that’s not enough of a silver lining, just remember that it’s also a sure sign of spring and warmer days are certainly on the way!

We're hiring experienced landscape professionals this Spring!

See our website for details: http://www.davidjfrank.com/index.php?Navigational-Pages-Careers-Job-Openings-35

Fall for a Great Lawn

Did you know that fall is a great time to improve your lawn? By fertilizing now, you'll see a noticeable improvement in your lawn next spring. Winterizing protects grass during colder months and gives it a head start after the first thaw for a lusher, greener lawn next season.

Fall is also the best time to start new grass from seed. Whether you're filling in a few bare patches, overseeding for a fuller lawn or starting a new lawn from the ground up, grass seed does well in fall for a number of reasons:

1. Heavy dew and cooler temperatures make it easy to keep seeds and new sprouts moist, without constant watering.

2. Daytime temperatures won't scorch the seeds, but keep the ground warm enough overnight to promote healthy germination and growth.

3. Weeds, which can easily choke out young grass, are usually under control by fall, if you've taken the proper steps during the spring and summer.

Here are also a few tips for giving your seed a good start:

1. Till the area as young roots can't penetrate heavily compacted ground; this will also help with proper drainage.

2. Add 2-3 inches of screened top soil and level it with a landscape rake.

3. Using a broadcast spreader, sow seeds that are well suited to the area; there are varieties specifically for sunny and shaded yards.

4. Using the same spreader, apply a starter fertilizer. Grass simply won't grow as well without this, and you need it with winter on the way.

5. Cover the soil and new seed with a light layer of hay to prevent wash-out.

6. Water well and continue as needed through fall.

After a few warm autumn weeks, grass will be strong enough to survive the winter and thrive in spring.

Just two words of caution ...

Weeds Happen! Tiny, resilient weed seeds are already in your soil, and more will find their way to your lawn by way of wind, bird or other modes. There WILL BE weeds growing along with new grass, but don't try to treat them yet: you'll kill them AND your new grass. Be patient and tackle them next spring; it's worth the wait!

IPM Update ...

Don't Leaf It Alone - Our Specialists Are Here To Help!

Lately our team has been talking with a number of clients who are saying "there's something wrong with my maple tree!" Chances are, the tree has a common fungal disease called TAR SPOT. Fortunately this problem rarely seriously impacts overall plant health and is primarily only an aesthetic problem. However, in conjunction with the drought and the fact that some trees have been quite heavily infected repeatedly over the last 4-5 years, Tar Spot is quickly becoming cause for concern. This disease cannot be treated now, in fall. If treating with fungicides, it must be done early in the spring – the first application is applied at bud break so now is the time to schedule this service with your David J Frank representative.

What is of the utmost importance in controlling this problem now and throughout the fall is that the fallen leaves of these trees must be collected and removed (or properly composted to kill the spores). The most commonly affected species is the Norway Maple, so if you have this tree on your property, be vigilant about raking leaves as they fall and doing a thorough fall clean up before the snow files. If left over winter, the spores will re-infect the trees next spring. Also, as is always the case, proper care and watering will help keep the plants as healthy and resilient as possible. Below is more detailed information if you're interested, or simply call us for assistance.

http://hort.uwex.edu/articles/tar-spot

EUONYMUS SCALE is also very noticeable right now. There are many scales and this particular kind affects evergreen Euonymus like Boxwood Bittersweet, Burning Bush, Pachysandra and more. It is another problem that is hard to effectively control (chemically) right now based on the life cycle of the pest.

The problem is usually detected after high populations have develped and damage has already occurred. Stressed plants, like those near buildings where there are high temperatures and low moisture are most prone to attack. The first symptoms appear as narrow yellow or white spots on the leaves, which are males. Closer observation reveals female scales (dark brown and oyster-shell shaped) along the stems and leaf veins and sometimes on the leaf undersurface. The scales overwinter as mature, fertilized females. In spring, eggs are laid under the scale covering and hatch over a period of 2-3 weeks. The tiny orange-yellow "crawlers" then move to other parts of the plant or are blown to other susceptible hosts. There may be 2-3 generations per year, but the newly hatched crawlers are the easiest to control with contact insecticides. Because they hatch over a long period and feed on sap inside the plant tissue, contact or systemic insecticides are the preferred treatment.

Dormant season application of a narrow-range or horticultural oil is effective against scales overwintering as adults, but eggs will still need to be treated several times in spring at 10 - 12 day intervals with appropriate pesticides. Because there are so many varieties of scale and several application options, the best approach is to seek professional help with properly identifying and treating this problems before the plant becomes defoliated and you risk the death of valuable ornamental plantings.

The Doctor Is In!

We are fortunate to be one of only a handful of landscaping firms in the whole Midwest that has an IPM specialist (integrated pest management) on staff with a Ph.D. in entomology. Dr. Alfred Bezhani is available to to help with this or other insect problems and works closely with our team of horticulturists, arborists, certified landscape technicians, licensed applicators and maintenance professionals to ensure the complete health of your landscape, now and for seasons to come.

Impatiens In Danger: Mildew Alert!

New Plant Disease Attacks Annual Impatiens ...

Production manager, horticulturist and plant pathologist Kurt Bartel of David J. Frank has identified our first case of the much publicized plant disease called Downy Mildew on some bedding impatiens (Impatiens walleriana) at a location near a job site. Impatiens are the nation's most popular annual bedding plant so there is a lot of concern about this new (to impatiens) disease that has caused problems in the United States, Europe and South Africa. Our crews have been alerted so they can take necessary steps to control its spread when possible, but here's what you can look for too:

Symptoms of the disease include leaves are chlorotic or stippled and become completely yellow over time. There may be subtle gray markings on the upper leaf surfaces and white, downy growth (fruiting bodies) on the underside of the leaves. Plants affected by Downy Mildew will not produce an acceptable floral display. As the disease progresses, leaf drop occurs and stems become bare. The stems may then become soft and the plants simply collapse.

If the disease is found, remove the plants and the leaf debris and dispose of the material offsite. Debris should be put in plastic garbage bags and disposed of in a dumpster, NOT a compost pile! Impatiens walleriana should not be planted back into the same location for at least one year. Spores overwinter in the soil – making sanitation and crop rotation very important. Chemical treatments cannot be relied upon for control for a variety of reasons, but we can help you with control and other options for beautiful displays for upcoming seasons.

High and Dry: Drought Alert

New Plants Need More Water

Due to recent high temperatures and dry conditions, your annuals and new plants could be dying of thirst! It takes trees, shrubs and perennials one to three years to send out and re-establish their root systems so they need extra water while young to survive a drought. Please remember to water all plants thoroughly during dry spells, and follow these recommendations for new and young plants:

- Groundcovers, deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees, as well as lawns, should receive a thorough soaking once every week. This is accomplished by watering slowly at the base of the plant, so that the entire root system gets a much needed drink. For lawns, a sprinkler can be left in place for one to two hours.

- If your lawn has been installed this spring, it requires watering every other day when there is no rain.

- Annual flowers and new perennials should be checked for moisture and watered daily during the first month. During the second month, every other day is appropriate and thereafter, twice a week. This recommendation can be adjusted in accordance with weather conditions. Annuals and perennials tell you they are thirsty by wilting; if this occurs, the plant has already been severely stressed but it can often bounce back if it gets a thorough soaking right way.

Free Estimates on Irrigation

The summer months are already busy, so consider an automated irrigation system that takes care of the watering for you - even while you're at work or on vacation. Call us for a free estimate on a state-of-the-art sprinkler system that will protect against drought damage and ultimately save time, water and money.

New Isn't Always Improved... Some Hybrids Don't Live Up To The Hype

It's easy to be tempted by slick ads for new flowers and hybrid plants but buyer beware ... new varieties aren't always better. The beautiful specimens you see in pictures have enjoyed expert care under ideal conditions, and those young plants at the nursery or garden center have yet to prove themselves. While we don't want to discourage creativity or trying new things in your garden, we also don't want you to be disappointed. Wisconsin is far from ideal and presents a number of challenges for even the hardiest of plants - from harsh winters and hot, dry summers to poor soil conditions and a variety of voracious insects and wildlife. Unless a new plant has consistently performed through several seasons here, we caution you to take all promises by the grower with a grain of salt.

Dr. Laura Jull, Associate Professor at the University of Wisconsin Department of Horticulture, says it well: "I personally do not endorse or promote any new plant without at least growing it for 3 – 5 years (shrubs and vines) or 10+ years (trees and evergreens) in Wisconsin ..."

Here at David J. Frank, we take a similar approach: We won't risk the health and appearance of your property by installing unproven plants. In other words, we don't believe the hype. Instead, we make our selections based on experience and promise that our recommendations are in the best interest of your overall landscape, now and for years to come. We know what grows, and for this reason, we can make the best possible selections and guarantee that they will do well in the long run.

This doesn't mean you are limited in your choices, because we work with a palette of literally thousands of proven plants – durable trees, shrubs and flowers in a full range of sizes, shapes, textures and colors. This also is not to say we won't include certain plants if a customer specifically requests them, but our plans always begins with the strongest choices for the needs and style of each individual landscape.

So before you choose something new over the tried 'n true, ask these questions:

1. Where did the plant originate?

2. Where and for how long was it trialed?

3. Does it fill a need that can't be satisfied by a proven variety of that same or similar species? (For example, is it worth trying a new hybrid hydrangea when there are already so many sizes and colors of proven performers?)

4. Will the plant be available in a few years? (Keep in mind that, as new hybrids are introduced, older varieties are often phased out, making it difficult to match/replace in the future.)

5. What is the availability and cost?

We hope you will always be excited about new plants and ideas for your landscape, but we also encourage you talk to an expert before making any big decisions or purchases. We have a great team of landscape architects and horticulturists on staff and available to answer your questions so don't hestitate to contact us. Happy landscaping ...